Canada - 2010
Canada trip September – October 2010
My partner Greta and I took a two-week trip to Canada in late September, early October, 2010. The first week was spent in Nova Scotia
and Prince Edward Island, and the second week was spent in Quebec Province at a RCI timeshare resort about an hour’s drive north of
Montreal.
Week One – Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Air Canada took us from Los Angeles to Toronto where we changed planes to continue to Halifax, Nova Scotia. Because we arrived
after 9 p.m. in Halifax, and we had no idea of where we were going, we elected to take a taxi to our hotel from the airport instead of
renting a car at that point. A cab to the downtown area with tip cost $60. For all practical purposes, we found the United States dollar
and the Canadian dollar interchangeable. There was no need to exchange money. However, retail shops and restaurants in Canadian airports
charge 7 cents per dollar on purchases.
For example, if you spend $3.00 at Burger King, and give them a USA $20, they charge $4.40, three bucks for the food and $1.40 for
the exchange. But airports were the only places that did that.
Our hotel in Halifax was the Best Western at Chocolate Lake, which is about a 12-15 minute drive from downtown Halifax, where the
harbor is located. The hotel was $109 per night, much cheaper than the hotels near the waterfront. The next morning, we took a public
bus to downtown Halifax, to pick up our reserved rental car at the Enterprise office in the Scotia Center, where the Delta Hotel is
located.
We left the rental car in the Enterprise parking lot while spending four hours walking through Halifax Harbor (Halifax
Video Here). The weather was about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, a bit windy, but perfect for walking.
 We started near Salty’s Restaurant (near the Historic Properties) and made our way to where the cruise ships dock, about a mile. For
lunch, we ate at Murphy’s, known for its lobster. During WWII, Canada had 239 small warships called Corvettes. The last preserved one
is a war memorial of the Canadians who died during the war. Near the cruise ships, we stopped at the Garrison Brewery,
where people can sample the beers brewed right on site. That night, we drove back downtown and ate at Murphy’s again; both of us had
lobster.
Prince Edward Island
On day two, we drove approximately two hours to Caribou where the ferry boats depart for Prince Edward Island. We had made
reservations ahead of time online, but at this time of year they likely weren’t necessary. The ferry crossing takes 75 minutes.
There is an alternate way to get to P.E.I., but you would have to drive a considerate distance into New Brunswick and cross on the
Confederation Bridge that connects those two Maritime Provinces.
From where the ferry arrives in Wood Islands, P.E.I., it is about a 45-minute
drive to the
 city
of Charlottetown, the hub of activity for the province. We drove through that
Charlottetown and then for another hour on to Cavendish, which is the setting
for the book, The House of Green Gables. Greta really wanted to visit that area so we
spent a couple of hours there, which you can see on the video linked from this page. Visiting the grounds and the historic house is very
worthwhile.
We returned to Charlottetown and found a lovely motor inn, The Islander, near the heart of the old city. The cost with tax was
$170.00, a bit more than we wanted to spend, but we were exhausted from the driving and wanted a nice place to spend the evening.
That area of Charlottetown has all kinds of quaint restaurants and shops; I imagine in summer it is packed with people.
In lieu of dining out, we walked past a hot dog cart and took a couple of sausages with us to the room and enjoyed a nice bottle of
red wine.
The next morning, we caught the 9:15 ferry back from Wood Islands to Nova Scotia. The roundtrip ferry cost for us and the car was
$71.00. From there we set out for Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, with the intent to drive the famous Cabot Trail.
On this trip, there was a great deal of driving but it was the only way to accomplish what we wanted to do—see as much of the
Maritimes as possible—in just five days.
The next part of our trip—driving through Cape Breton Island—is also on the video linked from this page.
We stopped for lunch at the cute town of Baddeck, which is on highway 105 on Cape Breton Island. How fortunate it was that a deli
with personality called the Highwheeler Cafe caught our attention. Incredible
fresh food and pastries, and very friendly people.
 We
drove the Cabot Trail in a counterclockwise direction because a woman tourist
guide on the ferry boat said she preferred to go around the island in that
direction because the turnouts are all on the ocean side. She said she enjoyed
the views better from that perspective. So, we toured Cape Breton Highlands
National Park from right to left.
About 5 p.m., we decided to stay in Cheticamp, a fishing village a few miles from where you exit the National Park. Laurie’s Motel
looked inviting and was a great place to stay for $110.00, including tax. At night, we ate in the bar of Le Gabriel restaurant and
listened to a couple of old timers strum their guitars. It was lobster for dinner again that night.
Every place we stayed in Canada had free Wi-Fi, which I thought was terrific.
The next morning we drove back to Halifax, and actually by-passed it to get
to Peggy’s
 Cove
(about a half hour beyond Halifax), which we had heard so much about. Because
the air was so warm, and the ocean so cold, a dense fog set in about the time we
arrived in Peggy’s Cove. It is a tiny fishing village with frankly not much to
see.
We figured we’d better get a motel before it got dark so we stayed at the Clifty Motel, right on the water. The cost, including tax, was about $95. There were only six cars in the parking lot that night.
A visit to the memorial site for SwissAir flight 111, that went down about 6 miles off the coast in September, 1998, is
sobering. More than 200 people perished. It was a very surreal feeling being there, in the fog, looking out to sea. It was like the
passengers were telling us how much they appreciated us paying our respects. Two European couples were there at the same time.
The motel operator, also a European woman, suggested a place to eat in Hackett’s Cove, a few miles away, called the Finer Diner.
Great suggestion. We were the only people sitting out on the deck, in the fog, looking at a few fishing boats and enjoying a plate of
fish and chips. The two young women owners were pleased that two Californians were gracing their restaurant that night.
Early the next morning, we drove to Halifax and turned in our Enterprise rental car. The nice folks at Enterprise drove us to the
train station, which is attached to a historic hotel. Week 2 of our trip began when the train, “The Ocean,” departed at 12:15 p.m. for
the 20-hour overnight ride to Montreal.
Put a visit to the Maritime Provinces on your to-do list.
Quebec
Greta booked the reservation on Via Rail, Canada, about four months in advance. The cost for both of us for a sleeping car, three
meals, and the ticket with a few tips added for the friendly service staff onboard the train was less than $300 each.
This is a wonderful trip; you can ride Via Rail in either direction-westbound, as we did, or eastbound. When you purchase a sleeping
berth, you can sit in the upper part of the dome car. The leaves were turning and it was a special ride, albeit raining most of the time.
The train arrived in Montreal at 9:15 a.m. We had booked a Budget rental car to be picked up right at the train station. Our
timeshare condo check-in time was 4 p.m. so we had a few hours to spend. We parked the car at a meter just outside the station—it was
Saturday, downtown wasn’t as busy as normal—and we decided to explore the immediate area.
Neither of us being familiar with Montreal, it was difficult getting our bearings initially but the three hours we spent that day helped us when we returned four days later for a day in Montreal. We visited the vast underground shopping malls that are connected to each other.
 After noon, we drove north up highway 15. The freeway was packed. Our destination was Lac Morency (Lake Morency), about an hour north, where we had reserved a resort condo. After exiting the freeway at St. Jerome, and driving toward the lake, we saw an IGA grocery market and knew it would be wise to load up on groceries. After all, we were going to be at a resort in the woods that was fairly remote.
The fall colors were breathtaking. Quebec was a couple of weeks ahead of Nova Scotia with the turning of the leaves. (See the video of Lac Morency
here).
That night, after a brisk walk, we stayed in our cozy condo and enjoyed a simple home-cooked meal.
On Sunday, there was a walk in the woods and a check on the activities the resort offered. Greta insisted that I sign up for a Muskalunge fishing trip with a guide for the next day, which I did. I had never caught a Muskie (a member of the Northern pike family) before, although I had tried many times when I had been a camper in Maine.
We also signed up for a tour of Quebec City, where tour guides would do the driving. The drive was eight hours roundtrip and no way did I want to navigate Quebec highways in the dark of night.
On Monday, the fishing trip was enjoyable, and yes, I caught a Muskie
(catch and
 release
only). The funniest aspect of the four-hour outing was the guide’s cell phone,
upon which he kept getting text messages on the status of his pregnant
girlfriend, who was having contractions and about to deliver a baby. I finally
said, “Look Fred, there are things in life more important than fishing. Let’s go
in and you drive the hour to be with her (of course, I waited to tell him that
until after I had caught a Muskie). I heard later that she had delivered a healthy baby the next morning.
Times are tough financially in Quebec. I tipped my guide Fred $25 and you would have thought I gave him Ft. Knox; he was so grateful.
On Tuesday, we drove to Mont Tremblant, an hour north, where a famous ski mountain
 is located. The fall foliage was spectacular. I counted five ski areas that were visible from the highway. Winter up here is cold and snowy. But, on that glorious day, it was perfect weather. We had lunch at a scrumptious French Café on the main drag in Mount Tremblant.
On Wednesday, it was a visit to Montreal. We parked on the pier near the old city of Montreal. From there, we were able to walk to many of the sites Montreal has to offer. Easily, one could spend three full days—or more—touring Montreal but we only had one day. (See the video for highlights
here).
 |
Our walk included McGill University |
 |
and a visit to the Bell Center, where the Montreal Canadians play hockey,
|
 |
and a walk through the entire old city. |
 |
On Thursday, we took the tour to Quebec City. What a relief, I did not have to drive the 8-hour roundtrip. And even though it rained most of the day, Quebec City is a must for people visiting Quebec. It is one of the most famous walled cities in the world. |
 |
The hotel, Chateau Frontenac, has tours you can take that are worthwhile. My recommendation is that you consider taking Via Rail from Montreal east to Halifax, but get off and spend the night in Quebec City. Invest an entire day there, it’s captivating. |
 |
Of course, the mighty St Lawrence River passes by Quebec City. |
On Friday, we stayed close to our condo. We took another hike in the woods and drank in the fresh air and wonderful smells of falling leaves.
On Saturday, we drove to the Montreal Airport and turned in our Budget car there. It was time to return to Southern California. But let me say this, we are more than blessed to have Canada as our friends and neighbors to the north. They are very special people, much more laid back than we are, except when it comes to ice hockey.
| 
